Yes its been a long time since my last post. Much progress has been made on the 240Z, though old man winter has harshed my mellow on the time frame. I might have it running in two weeks but there is no way my shake down event will be the DC Pro too much to go wrong.
The 2.8 liter motor from a 280Z is in the car and I have the shiny custom intake and headers bolted up to the block. I have the LS1 coil packs also bolted in the bracket and the bracket attached to the block. I have all the cabling to the injectors done and the fuel rail ready to bolt on. I have the first coil pack wiring harness done and have five left to build, which should take a few hours with all the crimping and soldering to be done.
After that I have to wire in the Crank and Cam sensors, the water and air temp sensors, and the MAP sensor. Then wire up the Megasquirt ECU and it will be time to crank the beast over an make sure the timing is correct (coils firing and injectors firing) and the cam and crank sensors are configured correctly. Then add fuel (after I bolt in a fuel tank and fuel pump) and see how things go… I will probably have my buddy Alberto over for this as he has gotten cars running and tuned before…
All of my writing lately has been on facecock but I am thinking I am going to curtail almost all facecock activity, as it is a time suck and I really don’t like it other than updates from my racer buddies. So I will try and post here more frequently.
Well it has been a while since an update. I have been busy. I have the struts sectioned and my brakes from Arizona Z cars finally showed up.
My welder took a while but finally came through. If you look closely you can see my boo boo.
I don’t know where I had a math/measurement error. I knew the total length should be 14.9ish inches but somehow I cut too much out and some how I got 14 inches. I even measured it again after thinking I was cutting an awful lot out of the top section of the strut. Well I got an extra weld in… but it all came out ok.
Got them all painted up and started with the fronts.
Next up was starting on the front hubs nice ARP studs pressed in. Little did I know that I should have pressed in the bearing races first to make things easier.
So here are the Wilwoods in all their glory. I got the parking brakes but not sure about the cables yet.
I picked up a set of bearing and seal pushers. Was not too sure about the set but for 30 bucks what could go wrong.
So putting in the studs too soon made me work a bit harder to get the bearing races pushed in as I now had to contend with the extra long studs.
So I got the Wilwoods bolted to the strut but then ran into an issue where the hex cap on the brake caliper itself was a 9mm. I do not have a 9mm hex socket or even a 9mm hex key.
So it was on to another part of the project. My OS Giken came a couple of weeks ago but I ran into the dreaded 110mm ring gear on my old 3.54 diff out of an auto 240Z. So after getting a couple of scammers trying to sell me Diffs for 400 bucks on other sites I found blue72 had an auto diff out of a part out car and he got it shipped to me. But as I was in the middle of the strut project I did not get to it till last week. Then figured out that I needed to get a new set of bearings and that took a week also.
I pressed on both bearings and if I had it to do over I would only press on one bearing, as I had a bunch of difficulty getting the bigger OS Giken with both bearings pressed on into the diff housing, but I finally managed it. I put new oil seals on for the output shafts and O-rings on the inside of the side covers and have a new gasket for the diff cover. So I will put that on and get it all buttoned up and ready to swap the rear diff and get all the new bushings put in at the same time.
One question, I have never worked with non sealed bearings. There was a TON on old grease in the space between the bearings in the front hub. I throughly packed the bearings and liberally greased the spindle but did not add a bunch of grease between the bearings. Is this just a bunch of buildup that people don’t clean out between re-greasing their bearings?
Well the 240Z is underway. The suspension has been yanked. One of the spinel pins was original and the other was obviously replaced at some point in its life.. Probably when my buddy put in the Tokico shocks and springs. It was never on the road since then so the shocks and springs are mint, but out with the old in with the new.
The spindle puller I got from Hybrid Z forum member was a beefy piece of kit and it did the trick with no discernible wear and tear on the tool…
The fronts I got all stripped down with no issue. The rears stub axels on the other hand laughed in my face. My 600 foot pound battery impact was just laughed off. I went to my buddies house and the first bolt came loose with his Air Impact tool but no joy on the second one. Finally with his bench vise and 2 foot breaker bar and our 400 pounds of meat finally got the second one to come loose. Do those nuts really need to be that tight???
Then it was on to getting the spring perches off of the struts.
As this was my first time grinding on metal or cutting things with an angle grinder it took a long time for the first one.
The second one went much faster.
So by the time I got to the fourth one it was a pice of cake.
Still have not cut off the brake line tabs on the front struts yet and will have to do it at some point.
My pipe cutter finally showed up on Saturday afternoon and I got busy cutting some 2 inch pipe into 1 inch rings.
Now I just have to do a bunch of measuring before I cut the strut tubes down to size. I am doing Koni 8611-1259 inserts and they are double adjustable ones with the compression adjustment on the bottoms of the inserts so I need to make allowances for this in the fronts.
I have done extensive reading on Hybrid Z about how to deal with the adjuster and it looks like the only thing you can do is cut the bottom and then take the two bolts at the bottom of the struts off in order to adjust them while they are still on the car. Has anyone found an easier way to make the adjustments on the compression easier than taking the knuckle arm off of the bottom of the strut?
No rushing as it has to be right the first time…